Applicants:

1) Community Councils of the Commandaria villages region (Agios Georgios Sylikou, Agios Constantinos, Agios Mamas, Agios Pavlos, Apsiou, Gerasa, Doros, Zoopigi, Kalo Chorio, Kapilio, Lania, Louvaras, Monagri and Sylikou)

2) Agricultural Associations of Cyprus (Union of Cypriot Farmers, Pan-Cyprian Farmers Union, Pan-Agricultural Association of Cyprus, New Agricultural Movement and Euro-Agricultural Association)

3) Cyprus Wineries Association

4) Department of Agriculture - Ministry of Rural Development and Environment

5) Association of Graduate Oenologists

6) Pan-Cyprian Association of Sommeliers

7) Cyprus Oenophiles Association

8) Oenophiles Association of Famagusta

 

Interested communities (relevant entities and continuators of the element):

Viticulturists and wine producers in the 14 Commandaria villages, residents and visitors of these villages, agricultural unions, associations of wineries, oenologists and oenophiles, Museums (the Museum of Commandaria in Zoopigi and the Museum of Commandaria and olive oil in Sylikou), agronomists, and specialized scientists in the fields of viticulture and oenology, as well as the broader oenophile community. Τhe main entities and continuators of this element are the viticulturists and wine producers of the Commandaria villages (men and women, both young and older people, "amateur" wine producers who are mainly engaged in home vinification for personal consumption, cooperative wineries and modern wineries with advanced winemaking facilities). The production of Commandaria is primarily undertaken by men in the region, but their families are also involved. Local Authorities and organized bodies play a crucial role as promoters of Commandaria through various activities developed at both national and international levels. These include the Community Councils of the 14 Commandaria villages, the Cyprus Wineries Association, the Association of Graduate Oenologists, the Pan-Cyprian Association of Sommeliers, Cyprus Oenophiles Association, the Oenophiles Association of Famagusta, and the Agricultural Associations. As the competent authority by law, the Department of Agriculture, specifically the Viticulture and Oenology Sector, plays a leading role in shaping the wine policy of the Ministry of Agriculture, Rural Development, and Environment. It maintains an ongoing dialogue with Local Authorities, Producer Organizations, Agricultural Associations, and other entities, developing initiatives at both national and international levels to support the sector in every possible way. Among its legally assigned responsibilities is ensuring and promoting the interests of Cypriot viticulturists and winemakers within the relevant Union and International decision-making centres.

 

Field of Intangible Cultural Heritage:

knowledge and practices concerning nature and the universe

traditional viticulture and wine products

traditional diet and customary practices

social practices, rituals, and festive events

 

Year of inscription:

2021

 

Geographical distribution:

Commandaria, the renowned sweet wine from the demarcated geographical region of the Commandaria villages, is a traditional product with a protected designation of origin. Its natural sweetness and complex aromatic bouquet can only be achieved if the required conditions are met, such as vinification from sun-dried grapes of the indigenous Cypriot varieties ‘Xynisteri’ and ‘Local Mavro’, sourced from non-irrigated vineyards in the communities of the Commandaria villages: Agios Georgios Sylikou, Agios Konstantinos, Agios Mamas, Agios Pavlos, Apsiou, Gerasa, Doros, Zoopigi, Kalo Chorio, Kapileio, Lania, Louvaras, Monagri, and Sylikou (see related maps 1 and 2 from the Department of Agriculture). The region’s soil and climatic conditions favour the production of Commandaria: the altitude (400 to 900 meters) and slope of the vineyards, the limited rainfall (vines rely solely on rainwater), the abundant sunshine, the hot and dry summers, the mild to cold winters, and the limestone and/or volcanic soil contribute to the unique and authentic organoleptic character of Commandaria. Beyond the fourteen (14) villages that are authorized to produce it, Commandaria is consumed throughout Cyprus and abroad.

 

Description:

The knowledge and practices involved in the production of Commandaria reflect a centuries-old tradition that uniquely embodies the characteristics of the Cypriot land, as well as the aromas and flavours of Cyprus' indigenous grape varieties. It is about a sweet wine steeped in legends and history, a wine that reflects the historic terroir of its protected designation of origin. ‘The sweet wine of Cyprus’, ‘Nama’, ‘the wine of kings and saints’, ‘the ambassador’, or ‘the flagship’ of Cypriot wines are just a few of the names given to this traditional wine product that Commandaria represents today. Its name is derived from the medieval Latin word commendaria, which was used for the central administration of the religious-military Order of the Knights Templars (and later the Hospitallers), whose headquarters were located at the fortress in the area of the present-day village of Kolossi in the Limassol district during the Frankish period (Ionas 2001, Petrou-Poiitou, 2013).

Commandaria has been registered at both national and union levels as a protected designation of origin (PDO). As a Cypriot PDO wine, it is defined, produced, and marketed in accordance with the applicable legal framework of the European Union in the wine sector, regarding permissible oenological practices and geographical indications, as well as in compliance with the stricter and more detailed national legal framework that regulates and controls Commandaria. At an international level, Commandaria is protected through bilateral agreements between the European Union and third countries such as Australia, Canada, Chile, and others. Moreover, Cyprus has recently submitted an application through the European Commission for the protection of Commandaria under the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Cyprus is also making efforts to secure protection for Commandaria in India.

As a traditional and unique agricultural product, Commandaria provides significant evidence regarding the way Cypriot farmers have adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of their region, as well as the crops and cultivation methods they have followed over the centuries. It is produced exclusively from Cyprus’ indigenous grape varieties, ‘Xynisteri’ and ‘Local Mavro’, within the demarcated geographical area of the historic Commandaria villages, which include: Agios Georgios Sylikou, Agios Konstantinos, Agios Mamas, Agios Pavlos, Apsiou, Gerasa, Doros, Zoopigi, Kalo Chorio, Kapilio, Lania, Louvaras, Monagri, and Sylikou.

The Commandaria region is located north of Limassol and south of Troodos Mountain range, with vineyards whose altitude reaches 400m to 900m. Topography/Soil Characteristics: In the west, the terrain is semi-mountainous with a gentle natural slope at altitudes ranging from 400m to 700m. The average slope varies between 10° and 30°, and the soils are calcareous.  

In the east, the region is an extension of the Troodos Mountain range, featuring volcanic and rocky sloping soils with inclinations exceeding 30° and altitudes reaching up to 900m. The terrain is shaped into terraces to facilitate the establishment of vineyards. Climatic characteristics: Summers are hot and dry, while winters are mild to cold, especially in the northern areas at altitudes above 800 meters. Based on measurements taken between 1991 and 2005, the average daily temperature is 17.7°C. During summer, the average daily temperature ranges between 24.3°C and 27°C, while in winter, it varies between 8.9°C and 10.5°C. The average daily sunshine duration is 8.4 hours per day, and the average annual rainfall is approximately 650mm. The months of December, January, February, and March have the highest rainfall, whereas the remaining months have minimal rainfall.

Cyprus has had a long-standing tradition in viticulture and winemaking since ancient times, as evidenced by numerous archaeological findings and testimonies from historians, geographers, poets, philosophers, and travellers. Botanical remnants found at archaeological sites in Cyprus confirm the existence of vineyards on the island. The Greek geographer, philosopher, and historian Strabo (64 BC – 24 AD) describes Cyprus as ‘Evoinon’ (rich in wine) in his work Geographica, while the Roman Pliny the Elder (23 AD – 79 AD), states in his work Natural History, that Cypriot wine is highly esteemed. ‘Rejoice and drink well’ is the inscription on a kylix (drinking cup) excavated by archaeologists in the ancient city-kingdom of Marion (founded in the 7th century BC), near present-day Polis Chrysochous. Dionysus, the god of wine and revelry, frequently appears in depictions on mosaic floors and pottery, with a notable example being the elaborate mosaic floor of the ‘House of Dionysus’ (late 2nd century AD) in Nea Pafos (Kato Pafos). This mosaic floor portrays God Dionysus teaching the Athenian Ikarios the art of viticulture and winemaking as a token of gratitude for his hospitality. Above their heads, an inscription reads, ‘The first to drink wine’. As with other Eurasian civilizations (Johnson & Robinson, 2001), this can be attributed to the fact that beyond satisfying basic human needs such as food, drink, and shade (Papadopoulos, 2004), vines and wine also provided sensory enjoyment and the joy of social interaction, as they believed that wine liberated the soul from fear, servility, and falsehood, making people feel true and free (Plutarch, Sympotic Questions).

The grapevine, Vitis vinifera L., a perennial plant with an annual vegetative cycle, has attracted the interest of the people of Cyprus for thousands of years - and not without reason - across all social strata (Vrontis & Paliwoda, 2008). Viticulture and winemaking in Cyprus constitute a production system with a long-standing tradition and deep roots (Andrew, 2002). It has survived despite hardships over the centuries (Johnson & Robinson, 2001), which is an achievement of Cypriot farmers who ensured the preservation of small vineyards for their families, even when conditions were unfavourable for large-scale viticulture and wine trade (Papadopoulos, 2004). In 1191, with the conquest of Cyprus by King Richard I of England, known as the Lionheart, a significant period in the island’s history began. The name and history of Commandaria are linked to the Order of the Knights Templar, who held military control of Commanderie or Commandaria in Kolossi. The fertile region surrounding Kolossi, which belonged to the Templar, included vast fields of wheat, cotton, sugarcane, and vineyards. It was in this area that the island’s renowned sweet wine was produced; a tradition that was later adopted and perfected by the Knights Hospitaller. Today, there is no information on which grape varieties were used at the time or in what proportions. However, the Knights Hospitaller, being connoisseurs of fine wine and its production techniques, significantly advanced the trade of Commandaria, which gained immense fame over the centuries and is likely the oldest named wine still in use today. It is historically clear that from 1878 onwards, Cyprus managed to overcome the wine stagnation caused by the Ottoman period. This was a monumental achievement, as the Ottomans had gradually imposed restrictions on the production and consumption of wine and other alcoholic beverages, almost erasing Commandaria’s rich heritage as Cyprus’s emblematic wine (Aristidou, 1990). As a result, with the end of the Ottoman era, the first foundations were laid not only for the survival but also for the further development of Commandaria and other wine products and derivatives, while the island began to gain commercial momentum that continues to this day, leaving behind a living historical legacy for future generations of Cypriots (Papadopoulos, 2004).

Therefore, due to their significant role in the lives of Cypriots, the vine and wine (Commandaria) appear to have been inextricably linked to the Greek identity of Cyprus, Orthodoxy, art and culture, daily life, poverty, and hardships.

In the Commandaria villages, almost every household functioned as a small winery, where the owner and the viticulturist had all the necessary equipment for wine production, storage, aging, and transportation to places of consumption. The small-scale viticulturist felt joy and pride when he could invite guests for dinner and treat them to his own Commandaria. These viticulturists ensured they completed their own grape harvest quickly so they could work elsewhere, always helping relatives and friends as well (Hatzisavvas, 2003). At the end of the day, the grapes - almost always overripe from the sun or even sun-dried after being laid out for days (Papadopoulos, 2004) - were gathered at homes or ‘linos’ (traditional wine presses), where they underwent traditional treading and vinification, usually in pitharia (large clay jars) or barrels (Egoumenidou, 2002). Apart from the built-in linos, where grapes were stomped by foot, there were also grape-pressing systems with large levers that moved massive stones within elevated stone basins or, later, within vertical presses with wooden baskets (Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou, 1989). The result of traditional vinification and wine clarification (kouliasma) with the help of the wicker strainer (kofini) and the gourd (koloka) was a ΄dynamite’ wine, high in alcohol content and residual sugar, with great durability and suitable for long-distance transportation; therefore, making it ideal for trade: the Commandaria (Papadopoulos, 2004).

The image of the era was complemented by merchants, tasters, transporters, potters, basket weavers, and barrel makers - an entire world of people engaged in professions dependent on the vineyard and its fruits (Wine Products Council, 2006). During the grape harvest season, it was customary to make many sweets from must, flour, and nuts throughout Cyprus (Papadopoulos, 2004). The method of preparation was simple but laborious, and success depended on the experience of each housewife. It was common to produce raisins to offer to guests along with walnuts, almonds, fruit, and zivania. They would take grapes - usually ‘Local Mavro’ - and crush them. They separated the must from the tsipouro (pomace) and boiled it in the ‘hartzin’ (traditional cauldron) to make ‘epsima’ (grape syrup) (Wine Products Council, 2006). In a similar way, they made ‘palouze’, ‘soutzoukos’ and ‘kiofterka’, usually with ‘Xynisteri’ grapes, while with the ‘epsima’ and washed wheat, they prepared ‘portos’ (pulp) (Wine Products Council, 2006).

Production process of Commandaria in the past:

The sweet wine of Commandaria was made in the same way as a common sweet wine, but the grapes came from a late harvest in order to be fully ripe. After harvesting, the grapes were spread out for 8 to 15 days in the sun (depending on the sunshine and temperatures) to dehydrate, and then the winemakers crushed them in the ‘lino’, a press to produce the must. The must was transferred to a clay jar and left to ferment. After its exposure on the rooftops of the houses and its partial dehydration, it was not trodden but pressed in the ‘lino’. After the grape harvest and their transportation home, the grapes were placed for two weeks on the rooftops of the houses to allow the water contained in the berries to evaporate, so that they would become sweeter. If the quantity of grapes was too large, the threshing floors could also be used for spreading them out in the sun. Since the rooftops were made of soil, they collected vine leaves and made a layer with them on which the grapes would be spread without getting dirty. They were spread out in a layer about a foot high.

For the extraction of the must that was used to make Commandaria, the ‘linoi’ were primarily used for the nearly complete drainage of the grapes during pressing. Crushing the grapes could not be done with feet in the treading vat, as the grape berries, after partial dehydration, became elastic and slippery when stepped on. The large beams that crushed the grapes were called ‘moukloi’, and for this reason, the name was given to the entire system, including the premises where the process took place. The grapes that were commonly called ‘the grapes of the drassia’, were laid out for eight days on the rooftops and were then transfered in wooden trays to the ‘louroi’ - the two holes found in the roof of the ‘lino’ premises. These holes were equipped with the neck and part of the body of an inverted jar, serving as a funnel. The grapes were channelled through the ‘louroi’ into a reservoir (the ‘tzgiathin’), located on the floor of the interior space of the premises. After placing the sparse planks (‘traves’), the ‘merkaka’ (some kind of weight) and the ‘must’ over the grapes, the spindle was unscrewed so that the ‘mouklos’ (press) could descend and crush them.

The must from the pressed grapes was then transfused with the help of mastrapades (large cups) into the large tarred clay jars that were located inside the same building as the winepress. At a later stage, the owner would transfuse the must again and move it to his own facilities. The fermentation process and the successive transfusions of Commandaria were the same as those followed for common wine. However, there was a difference in the alcohol content of the must. For Commandaria, the must had to have 15-17 degrees of alcohol, while for the common wine, only 13-14 degrees were needed. Some producers would seal the jars and age the wine for years so that the wine, and especially their Commandaria, could develop its true character. It is said that one of the best wines in the world is a 100-year-old Commandaria. In the past, in order to achieve this, producers of Commandaria would not empty the jars before each new production, but would add new must to make up for the amount that had been consumed, for decades. The material of the old Commandaria, which had been at the bottom for years, known as mana, gave the aroma, taste, color, and, above all, the composition of the famous old Commandaria. (Ionas, 2001)

Production process of Commandaria today:

The long tradition and expertise developed in the region for the production of Commandaria have led today’s local winemakers to create a new type, a more natural version of Commandaria. This new type of Commandaria is legally called ‘Wine from Sun-Dried Grapes’. The international medals and distinctions that this great national product of the region continues to receive, demonstrate that Cyprus has enormous potential in producing quality sweet wines. For these reasons, Commandaria has been recognized as Cyprus' greatest wine ambassador.

Commandaria has been registered at both national and Union levels as a protected designation of origin (PDO). As a Cypriot PDO wine, it is defined, produced, and marketed in accordance with the applicable legal framework of the European Union in the viticulture sector, regarding permitted oenological practices and geographical indications, as well as in compliance with the stricter and more detailed national legal framework that regulates and controls Commandaria. At an international level, Commandaria is protected through bilateral agreements between the European Union and third countries, such as Australia, Canada, Chile, and others.

Commandaria is the child of the sun and the earth. All the potential quality of Commandaria is imparted during the traditional sun-drying process on the ground, where the grapes are laid out to dry. During that process, an extraordinary concentration of components takes place due to the direct exposure of the grapes to the sun and the dehydration of the water contained within them. At the same time, a series of chemical or enzymatic oxidations occur, contributing to the formation of Commandaria's unique organoleptic character. The sun-drying of the grapes is of paramount importance for the subsequent qualitative development of Commandaria. Special care must be taken in selecting the location where the drying mat - made of a suitable mesh - will be installed. Areas near slopes where rainwater may run off should be avoided, and the chosen ground should be sandy so that in the event of rain, it can drain easily. Particular attention should also be paid to the thickness of the grape layer to allow ventilation and avoid the development of unwanted moulds and the creation of substances such as ochratoxin-A and other toxins from Aspergillus growth. The grapes must be carefully placed on the drying mat to avoid premature breaking, which could cause further microbiological contamination with a negative impact on the organoleptic quality of the final product.

The oak barrel also plays a crucial role in shaping the organoleptic character of Commandaria. Along with proper sun-drying, the correct selection and maintenance of the oak barrel for the maturation of the sweet base wine, are the most important oenological practices in the production technology of quality Commandaria, especially considering that by law, a minimum maturation period of at least two years is required. Through the experimental activities conducted at the Model Winery of the Department of Agriculture, it is shown that the use of new oak barrels at low maturation temperatures around 14ºC and/or the use of barrels made from acacia wood, in addition to oak, can further refine the organoleptic characteristics of Commandaria, giving the product a more modern and innovative style. Several wineries have already entered the market with the new, more natural type of Commandaria - the Wine from Sun-Dried Grapes. Apart from its unique content, the product's packaging reveals the new air of quality that is blowing toward the revival of the quality and reputation of Commandaria.

Traditionally, Commandaria was produced and continues to be produced until this day as a Liqueur Wine. This designation is purely legal and indicates that the product may be strengthened with external alcohol of vine-based origin after the alcoholic fermentation process. Basically, this oenological practice has its roots in the British Administration of Cyprus, as Commandaria was widely exported to the British market. Due to the lengthy sea voyages involved in shipping the product there, it was necessary to ensure its microbiological stability and preservation. This led to the documented use of alcohol essentially for preservation purposes. However, this practice had two main consequences. On the one hand, the addition of external alcohol created the impression that the natural and authentic character of the product was being altered, particularly when the organoleptic combination of Commandaria and the added alcohol was unsuccessful. There was therefore a noticeable organoleptic inconsistency at the expense of the product's quality. On the other hand, the addition of external alcohol brought about tax procedures and burdens that made the product more expensive, while also preventing true Commandaria producers from taking control of their own product, thus hindering them from producing and marketing the product independently. The Department of Agriculture recognized this need and guided Commandaria producers toward the production of a new, more authentic and natural type, without the addition of external alcohol. As a result, in 2008, the first Commandaria was produced: the 'Anesperi - Wine from Sun-Dried Grapes', produced by the communities of Zoopigi, Kalo Chorio, and Agios Konstantinos, effectively opening the door to the differentiation of the national product of the region.

Today, hundreds of individuals, men, women, both young and old (viticulturists, winegrowers, agronomists, oenologists, and other specialist scientists and oenophiles), are involved in the production of Commandaria. The production from the early primitive methods has evolved to the current operation of modern wineries, which operate based on technological advancements and produce higher quality products aligned with contemporary standards. Cyprus' centuries-old tradition in viticulture and winemaking, and its successful adaptation to modern times, have significantly promoted the renewal of generations in the viticulture sector, the continuation of agricultural activity, and the preservation of centuries-old knowledge, practices, and customs.

Commandaria has been and continues to be a living element of Cyprus' intangible cultural heritage, closely connected to ancient winemaking practices, the traditional Cypriot diet, customs related to the cycle of time and life, hospitality traditions, and religious customs.

 

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• Ψαράς, Π. (1993) Κουμανδαρία-Ο Απόστολος των Κρασιών. Στο: Συμβούλιο Αμπελουργικών Προϊόντων-4.000 χρόνια παράδοσης, σ.91-105.

 

Contact Information:

Olvia Chatzipavlou 

Representative of the Cyprus Winemakers Association / Director of "Olympus" Winery 

Email: exports@etkowines.com 

Address: 31 Tsiflikoudion, 3045 Limassol 

 

Dr. Antigoni Polyniki 

Officer of the Cyprus National Commission for UNESCO 

Email: polynikia@gmail.com